Rifugio Garelli → Capanna Morgantini

The day starts with the classical Marguareis ascent through the Sentiero Sordella: an easy ferrata-style path well marked starting on the debrie fields at the top of Vallone del Marguareis. From the top of Punta Marguareis, we follow the steep, but stable, ridge North and pass the entrance of Genovesi Couloir, and then approach the sharp and visible ridge of Punta Tino Prato slightly from the left. The ridge is airy and exposed, but it can be bypassed on a grass patch to the left side. It is useless to try to protect. It is described as few steps of grade II. The ridge is crossed by keeping feet to the left side. After that it is an easy scramble to the top of tino prato, and more scramble down the first broken couloir (a few meters back from the top, on the left side). Then an easy walk to th ebase of the South-East face of Castello delle Aquile, which we tried to approach directly through the Bianciardi route (III+ max), but retreated since we couldn’t find the fix of the first anchor. We then mistakenly decided to climb up the South-East couloir, forcing ourselves in a useless and very unstable steep debrie channel. From the top of Castello delle Aquile we followed the path to Capanna Morgantini. A couple hundred meters before the (closed) hut, a metal box closed by a rock protects a water source that also fuels the hut. We took water from that reservoir by moving the rock. Be sure to close it again after to avoid contamination by wildlife.